It was summer of 2022 and I was going through a massive wave of grief. My father had just passed away earlier that year and my I was missing him terribly. I decided that in my grief, I wanted to travel. I wanted to try to enjoy the present moment: through food, through art, through wine, through anything other than my current emotion. I needed to feel my pulse again. I decided I would start with Italy because my Italian Grandmother (on my Mother’s side) was the only other person I had loved (so tremendously) and lost. And so, a part of me wanted to go searching for the parts of me I had lost along the way. With that intention and resolve, I purchased a one way ticket to Italy; I hoped to help heal my broken heart and to have a little fun in the process. I had plans to visit a few Italian cities: Florence, Milan, Rome, Venice, & Lake Como- all in the span of two weeks. I had my itinerary mapped out for me, and the only plan was to eat amazing food, drink Italian wine, bask in the Italian sun, and potentially meet some beautiful men. I was ready to take in all that Italy had to offer me; my arms were wide open to the world and I was waiting for the Universe to fill my open expectations with things of wonder and delight—and I wasn’t far off.
As I made my way way my way though the first two cities, Milan & Lake Como, I had a feeling the food was rather unremarkable. Of course, the pizza was truly Italian in the sense that it was paper thin, it wasn’t cut for you when served, and here pepperoni was actual peppers and not a type of fake meat. But, I mean, the food was nothing special in my opinion. I felt like Milan was more of a bustling European city, which revolved more around fashion and finance than food and Italian culture. Como was absolutely stunning, but I was looking for something more… and at that time, I could not put my finger on what more was.
It hit me what was missing about one week later while blissfully frolicking through the Tuscan countryside. After Como, I headed to Florence for a few days where I met a young Italian man. We had spent several days eating and dancing through Florence and enjoying each other’s company. I had a few blank days in my schedule before hitting Rome, so we discussed spending some days in Tuscany to visit some small villages with his car. A few days later, we were headed to see a statue nearby Florence when we decided to pull over to a well known restaurant to fuel up with pasta.
I was thrilled already with the day: I was driving around with a beautiful Italian man who was showing me his region and his culture and I was starting to accept that all endings lead to new beginnings. That deaths lead to rebirths. That life changes, and instead of clinging on to control—one should just relinquish it and instead throw your hands up to life and enjoy the ride. So I was. I eyed the menu. I already knew my date. He was going to want us to start with antipasto & wine, followed by the first and second courses, and topped off with dessert and espresso. I was already loosening my belt and preparing for the food coma when the menu item hit my eyes, “Tagliatelle al Ragù”. I wonder if this is like my Grandmothers recipe? I ordered it.
As the waiter delivered my pasta and quickly followed it by a heaping spoonful of parmigiano reggiano, I could feel my emotions start to rise. Before the pasta was even touching my mouth, it hit my nostrils and my olfactory nerves—-suddenly the year was 1995 and I was sitting in my Nonna’s kitchen in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The smell of meat sauce fills the room as the pot on the stove is simmering with three different types of meat, all for tonights Sunday Dinner. Uncle Mannie, my grandmothers brother-in-law, will be over at 5 like always to partake. There’s a fresh grated bowl of parmigiana on the table, and a fridge full of cold coke to go with dinner.
As I spin my fork around the pasta and lift it to my mouth to take a bite—-I can no longer hold back my feelings, and a single tear falls down my cheek… followed by a waterfall. “I am sorry,” I say to my date as tears fall into my pasta, “It reminds me of Grandma’s recipe. I didn’t know why I came to Italy till right now…but it was for this.” “It’s ok,” he replies, “I don’t think I have ever seen something so cute.” We continue to eat our pasta in silence and awe. Without words, my date can see that this food means so much more to me than most. For me, this brings me back home.
That the thing. For Italians (and yes, even Italian-Americans) food isn’t something you eat to survive- it is LOVE. It’s AIR. It is LIFE. Every sauce, every noodle that is made from scratch is “fatto con amore”- it’s made with love. Every bite should be filled with joy and every moment around a table should be savored. This is why I came to Italy. To remember not just where I come from, but to remember who I am. I was put on this earth to love, to eat, to savor, to rest, to create, to share, and to enjoy this life and the pleasures in it. And that started my journey into discovering my heritage (and reclaim my joy) through food.
I am excited now to share what I have learned with you…that it might spark in you a little bit of curiosity to go explore life and the flavors it contains.
***It is a side note (that must be mentioned) that Ragù sauce comes from the Emilia-Romagnia area and NOT Tuscany; specifically it is well known in the city of Bologna. ***
FLORENCE (Tuscany):
Let’s start in the part of Italy that I know best. The city, Florence. The region, Tuscany. Think rolling hills with cypress & olive trees lining the horizon. Grapes grow on vineyards in the distance and Renaissance art lines the streets. As you walk centro you can just feel the greats such as: Leonardo DaVinci, Galileo, Dante Alighieri & Machiavelli near you. You see the influence of the Medici’s everywhere. Somehow you are lost in the present, but sitting stunned, in the past. This is Florence at its finest; the creative and romantic energy of the city drew me to it instantly like a fish to water. I wanted to soak in its elegance hoping that some of its greatness would wash over my body and seep into my pores. I was in love and I couldn’t wait to experience this grand city for all it had to offer. But, if I am being honest… I had no idea just how intimate and deep my love story with Florence would go. But here I am, three years after I first stepped foot here- sitting at a cafe with a view of Duomo, sipping a cappucino & savoring a cornetto. I am soaking in every moment of my slow mornings here, living the dolce vita.
Florence’s most famous dish is the bistecca di Florentina which is a massive T-bone steak which is cooked simply with oil and salt to preserve the taste of the meat. A famous pasta that comes from Tuscany and will be served in many restaurants in Florence is pici, a thicker type of pasta then regular spaghetti, but shaped the same. It takes roughly 20 minutes to make pici al dente (I know, I have made it several times) but the wait is worth every bite. One of my favorite appetizers from Tuscany is coccoli, fried dough balls served with cured meats and cheese or sometimes grilled vegetables to prepare as a sort of sandwich to eat. This is literally so good. You must try it if you’re ever in this city. Tuscany is also well known for two types of “soups” but I am going to use that loosely. Mostly because pappa al pomodoro looks and feels like a soup but is really stale bread and tomotoes boiled down to a soup-like consistency. It sounds like it might not be good, but guys, it’s my favorite. I love a good papa al pomodoro before my pasta if I am really hungry. More carbs and tomato sauce? Yes, please! The second soup (which is actually a soup) is the ribolitta, a very healthy vegetable soup made mostly of beans and kale, but with the other vegetables you would find in a soup (think carrots, celery, and onions). When sick, there is literally nothing better than someone making this for you from scratch. Last, I have never braved lamprodotto (cow stomach) or trippa (stomach lining of a cow) but I promise ALL Italians swear it’s amazing. If you try it, tell me about it and lets see if you can talk me into my first bite…
Below are some of the foods which are typical here (some which I will recommend, some of which I can say I have been too scared to try).
- Pappa al Pomodoro
- Bistecca di Florentina
- Coccoli
- Ribolitta
- Lamprodotto
- Pappardelle al Ragù di Cinghiale
- Trippa alla Fiorentina
- Pici
ROME (Lazio):
There is absolutely no doubt in my mind, Rome is not just an amazing city for historical landmarks and art; but, also for Italian food. A lot of the most famous & well-loved pasta’s come from Rome: Carbonara, Amatriciana, and Cacio e Pepe. So, it is highly recommended when you travel to Italy, you save trying these dishes to the city they originated from. Carbonara is a classic pasta made with egg, parmigiana, & Guanciale. Amatriciana is similar but less creamy and more spicy. Amatriciana has guanciale, pecorino cheese, red pepper flakes & tomatoes. Cacio e Pepe is a pasta simply made with Pecorino Romano & pepper. Most restaurants that you go to in Rome, whether fancy or a hole-in-the-wall will not disappoint you. You should be able to get a fairly decent priced and prepared pasta for roughly £10 to £18 anywhere in city center. Another thing you have to try in Rome is the artichokes, or carciofi. Carciofi can be prepared two ways: alla Romana, marinated in herbs and oil and then served OR alla Giudia, in which they are fried and then served. Both are delicious, try them both.
Every neighborhood in Rome is adorable and worth checking out, but my two favorite places to shop, people watch, and eat are in two local neighborhoods: Trastevere and Cavour. Tristevere is kind of the “Bohemian” area of the city, known for good food, lots of bars, and rebels. Cavour is a little more artsy and full of vintage stores (yes, clearly why I love it). It is also home to my favorite pasta spot: Benso. If you ever go, order the Rigatoni all’amatriciana and please drink it with a good glass of red wine, for me.
- Pasta Carbonara
- Amatriciana
- Cacio e Pepe
- Carciofi alla Romana
- Carciofi alla Giudia
- Trippa alla Romana
- Pasta alla Gricia
CINQUE TERRE (Liguria):
It is to be stated, first and foremost, that Cinque Terre is a not a city in itself but actually means “Five Towns” in Italian and consists of five little cities on the Ligurian coast. Maybe it’s my love for little sea towns, maybe it’s the influence of Pixar’s movie “Luca” on me, but Cinque Terre was easily one of my favorite experiences in Italy to date. If you know me, you know I also have a deep love for pesto—-and folks, this is what Liguria is known for. You know what’s even better than pasta with pesto sauce? A seafood pasta with pesto sauce. This is ALSO Liguria. I spent three days soaking up the sound of the sea while sipping on Aperol Spritz and eating seafood pesto pasta—I was in my glory. And you will be too, if you decide to visit and eat here. Be sure to try the typical type of pasta of the region, trofie. It is often served with (you guessed it…) pesto! But, sometimes you will see it with a different sauce.
For reference the names of the five towns are as follows: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. All of the towns are worth seeing and there are hiking trails that connect each town, in case you want to also throw some nature in your trip. Another way to see each town is to buy a ferry pass for the days you’ll be there which will connect you to each city.
- Pesto alla Genovese
- Trofie
- Spaghetti Frutti di Mare
BOLOGNA (Emilia-Romania):
Bologna is not the most attractive city to say the least, really it’s kind of unremarkable with looks. The reason all sensible people visit Bologna is mostly for the food and the wine. Emilia Romania is easily one of the best regions for classic Italian food (this is probably highly debatable among Italians and most likely could start a war between them) but a lot of classic dishes we know and love around the world come from here. For instance, the classic bolognese sauce comes from Bologna. So does mortadella, the meat which Italian-Americans later named as “Bologne” and was a favorite of my Italian Grandmothers. Tagliettelle is a famous type of pasta from this region, which is made with eggs and usually is served with a more hearty sauce. Tagliare is an Italian verb which means to cut and quite literally this pasta is sliced with a knife when made by hand. Tortellini is another type of well known pasta from this region which is usually stuffed with meat or cheese. I have always had tortellini in sauce, but in Bologna, they add it to broth. I wasn’t sure if I would like it, but turns out, I like it a lot. I recommend to stop in this Italian city for at least a day purely for food reasons. Especially if you have traveled to Italy before and you’ve done the bigger cities (Rome, Florence, Venice) and now you are looking for something more tangible, more authentic. Bologna is what you want.
It is also noted here that there really is no difference between “Ragù” sauce and “Bolognese” sauce. Ragù seems to be used more by Italians everywhere and “Bolognese” is used often more by Italian-Americans. However, it was created in Bologna, and regardless of what you call it, it is fabulous.
- Ragù/Bolognese
- Tagliattelle
- Tortellini in Brodo
- Mortadella
- Gramigna alla Salsiccia
- Tigelle (with an aperitivo)
NAPLES (Compania):
Naples is a bustling metropolis of a city, where you can see how the history of poverty has shaped the city into what it is today. Because of this, Naples takes pride in its food and (especially) its street food. You can head to a very famous street called Spaccanapoli, which literally means to split the city of Naples. This street runs through the center of the city and is full of little shops and street vendors where you can get typical Napoleon treats like: sfogliatella, frittatina, pizza fritter, & baba. Sfogliatella is a pastry that has sweetened ricotta inside. You can get it two ways, riccia which means it has a crispy crust or frolla, meaning the pastry is softer. Another famous desert is the baba which is kind of a cake covered in Rum. I personally have not tried this, but a lot of people boast of the taste. Naples is also known for its fried food. You have Frittatina di pasta, which is pasta that’s fried. There is also pizza fritta, which is fried pizza and is insanely good. Polpette al Sugo was another favorite of mine, it is small meatballs with provolone inside covered in a regular pomodoro sauce; it’s simple but it packs a punch. So much so, that I thought there was guanciale inside vs. cheese. There are many dishes to try here outside of the Neopolitan pizza, so be sure that you are stepping outside of your comfort zone while traveling through this city. You’ll also be sure to run into many pictures and signs of Maradona (a very famous football player) throughout the streets, a symbol of Naples in the modern day. Basically, Dio himself.
- Sfogliatella (riccia or frolla)
- Pizza Neapolitan
- Polpette al Sugo
- Frittatina di pasta
- Pizza Fritta
- Zeppole
- Baba
BARI (Puglia):
Bari is the main city in Puglia and worth a visit if not just for the street where little old ladies make (and sell) Orecchiette. Puglia in general though (the region Bari is in) is a must see when traveling around Italy; as you hit each one of its little cities, the colors of Southern Italy paint the scenery: blue & white just like the ocean. Puglia is calm, just like the water that surrounds it. It can be full of people during peak season, but for the most part, it is still untouched by most tourists. It is a little southern Italian gem and I would implore you to experience it before the word gets out and it becomes as expensive and crowded as the Amalfi Coast. There are several little towns you’ll want to explore: Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, & Alberobello are just a few that I have seen and love. As Puglia is by the sea, of course some of the food and pasta that you partake in should have seafood in it. But, Puglia is also well known for some other Italian staples such as: Focaccia, taralli, & burrata cheese. Orichechiette is the most famous type of pasta in Puglia, which literally translates as little ears, because that’s what they look like. Cavatelli is another type of pasta, one which is commonly served alongside of seafood. Taralli are kind of like little crackers that are served as snacks for when you drink, they also help cleans the pallet. In Alberobello I ate at a fun little joint called La Fucapizza which made focaccia pizza’s and man it actually was quite a party in my mouth.
- Focaccia Barese
- Orecchiette
- Taralli
- Burrata
- Panzerotti
- Cavatelli
TROPEA (Calabria):
Tropea is most definitely my favorite beach that I have been to in Italy so far. The water is crystal clear and the sand is as white as white can be. There is a castle on the top of a hill which can be seen from all angles on the beach, adding to the fantasy as you play in the water. The smell of spices and seafood pass your nostrils as you sit in the sand— this is the land of spicy Calabrian chili peppers, ‘Nduja, & Calabrian onions. For any person who loves the beach, seafood, and any spicy food in general, Calabria is an absolute dream. If I thought that Puglia was an untouched region of Italy, I had no idea just how untouched Calabria was. To get here can be a bit difficult—so only the most experienced of travelers make the trek—and one that is well worth it. A caution to this tale though: I did buy Calabrian chili peppers (which are hotter than most) and tried to cook with them. Let me just say that I could not feel my hands or my mouth for several days. Be cautious, they are spicy. I also bought a jar of Tropea Onion Jam to go with cured meats and cheese….and let me tell you…I finished that jar extremely fast when I got home. I should have bought more, and I will next time I go.
- ‘Njuda
- Spaghetti Aglio, Olio, & Peperoncino
- Pasta e Alici
- Fileja
- Tropea Onion Jam
VENICE (Veneto)
When I think of Venice, I think of beautiful passageways with canals filled with gondolas sailing by. I think about carnival masks, the colorful houses in Burano and St. Marks Basilica; but, it wasn’t until recently that I started to fully appreciate the food scene in Venice. In Venice they have a tradition of cicchetti & an ombra. An ombra is a small glass of wine that is usually served for £1 and cicchetti are small bites on top of pieces of bread, often with either cured meats or seafood and a type of cheese. These are Venetian appetizers or snacks that are often served in bacari’s, Venetian bars where locals meet up for conversation. While in Venice, one should also try a seafood pasta since it’s located near the water. Another fun fact is both Prosecco & Aperol Spritz’s come from this region, so make sure to savor one of these while sitting outside with a view of the city- just for pure indulgences sake.
- Cicchetti
- Ombra
- Baccala Mantecato
- Polenta
- Prosecco
- Aperol Spritz
PALERMO (Sicilia):
Palermo is a city full of grit and amazing street food. It is clear that Sicily often did not have as much money as its counter part, the mainland of Italy, it shows in its culture, rich traditions, and its food; but, that’s also what makes Palermo a fascinating place. You literally can see the survival of the city as you stroll through it. Sicilians are friendly, but strong people. I once had an old woman stare me down until I greeted her with a friendly, “Buongiorno!” and her scowl quickly turned into a smile. She replied, “Buongiorno!” and proceeded about her day while crutching on her walker. This is Sicilian people, my people, and I find that I fit in there easily. My grandmother was Sicilian, and man was she both a lady and a brute- she knew how to work and pray, but also she was so terribly sweet and giving at the core. As I tell any local my heritage, they always greet me as one of their own and it feels like home. As far as food, you have to try my favorite Sicilian dish, Pasta alla Norma which is made with fried eggplant within it and a tomato sauce with ricotta in it. It is simple, but memorable and it’s a must every time I return to Sicily. Street food is big there, the most well known type is the Arancini which typically has ragù sauce wrapped around in rice and then fried to perfection. I will say, I did try the pani ca meusa when in Palermo, which is a sandwich made of spleen. It looked worse than it tasted but the texture to me was too rough and I quickly decided to eat something else. You should give it a shot though. Desserts are amazing in Sicilia: Cannoli, Granita (served to be dipped with a brioche), or gelato are all options.
- Aracini
- Cannoli
- Granita
- Pasta alla Norma
- Pani ca meusa
- Sfincione
- Panelle